The Victoria and Albert Museum, a cultural cornerstone in South Kensington, London, has long been a sanctuary for lovers of design, fashion, performance, and visual storytelling. Housing an eclectic collection that stretches across centuries, it’s a place where history meets imagination. Now, the museum presents an extraordinary new reason to visit: an evocative, high-impact exhibition entitled DIVA, which runs until 7 April 2024.
This landmark show is a compelling exploration of charisma, resilience, and performance artistry through the lens of the diva persona—charting a journey that bridges classical opera stages with the futuristic soundscapes of contemporary pop. Curated by an expert team led by Kate Bailey, with significant contributions from project curator Veronica Castro, this vibrant exhibition presents a fresh narrative that seeks to reclaim, reframe, and rejuvenate a term that has too often been misunderstood.
Reimagining the Diva: More Than a Title
The very term diva is one that elicits strong emotions. Often wielded as a double-edged sword, it is used to exalt brilliance or to criticize assertiveness. But this exhibition works hard to untangle and elevate the word to its original Latin root—diva, meaning goddess. In doing so, it reasserts the identity of the diva as one of complexity, talent, and cultural influence rather than stereotype.
By showcasing artists who have not only defined generations but challenged societal norms, the V&A’s DIVA exhibition captures how these figures—regardless of gender or genre—have wielded their personas as tools for artistic and political transformation.
An Exhibition Rooted in Iconography and Identity
At the heart of the V&A’s spellbinding DIVA exhibition lies an exploration of performance and persona through meticulously curated artifacts and installations. The exhibit—featuring more than 250 pieces—ushers visitors into a multisensory realm where the aesthetic, emotional, and sociopolitical facets of performance intersect. More than just a historical showcase, it is a living, breathing tableau of artistry and influence, where each item pulses with the energy of the legends who once inhabited them.
As visitors weave through immersive rooms layered with soundscapes and striking visuals, they are enveloped in a dynamic dialogue between past and present. On display are garments that shimmer with the legacy of timeless performers, from Maria Callas’s operatic regalia in the 1952 production of Norma to Janelle Monáe’s radically expressive “vulva pants” from her PYNK music video. Each piece transcends fashion, becoming a political statement, a declaration of identity, or a visual metaphor for transformation. These icons of style are not simply remnants of spectacle—they are cultural texts, imbued with meaning and purpose.
Visitors also encounter promotional posters, annotated sheet music, handwritten lyrics, vintage magazine covers, and early performance contracts that enrich the exhibition with contextual nuance. Film clips and archival footage, curated with cinematic precision, add depth to these tangible elements, evoking the performer’s voice, presence, and magnetism. These combined elements elevate the experience into something deeply intimate and transformative. It is here, in the intersection of material culture and lived performance, that identity becomes not just a theme—but a message.
Costumes as Cultural Testimonies
Garments have always carried a language of their own, but in the hands of a diva, they evolve into something profound. The DIVA exhibition articulates this beautifully by treating costumes not merely as fashion, but as narrative tools—emblems of personal revolution and public symbolism. From sequins to silks, leather to lace, every thread holds a story.
The Maria Callas costume, with its grandeur and traditional construction, speaks of the rigour, grace, and gravitas demanded by the opera stage. It conveys not only Callas’s towering vocal legacy but also her embodiment of artistic discipline and dramatic expressiveness. Her presence is almost palpable through the garment—its folds retain the echo of her arias, the weight of theatrical intensity, the whispers of standing ovations.
In stark contrast, Janelle Monáe’s now-iconic “vulva pants” speak to an era of gender discourse and unapologetic sensuality. Created by avant-garde designer Duran Lantink, the look challenges mainstream perceptions of femininity and provokes essential conversations around autonomy, embodiment, and sexual politics. Displaying these side by side, the exhibition breaks down linear narratives and instead assembles a dialogue of eras and ideologies—a panorama where divas across time converse through texture, color, and silhouette.
Beyond Glamour: The Visual Vocabulary of Power
While the exhibit dazzles with rhinestones, feather boas, and extravagant wigs, it makes an equally compelling argument that style is never just aesthetic—it is political. These objects communicate defiance, transformation, and the power to be seen on one’s own terms. Each displayed outfit, whether haute couture or handmade, echoes with intention. The fashion in this exhibition isn’t limited to garments worn on stage or screen; it includes off-stage styles and personal ensembles that illustrate how divas control and craft their image in the public consciousness.
Take, for instance, Elton John’s Louis XIV-inspired 50th birthday costume—a towering creation of rococo absurdity. Designed by Sandy Powell, this costume is at once theatrical and declarative. It lampoons monarchy, celebrates flamboyance, and anchors Elton John within the pantheon of gender-bending icons. Its exaggerated silhouette and powdered wig are not mere nods to history but flamboyant reinterpretations, asserting the performer's ownership of identity and narrative.
Another arresting moment comes from Shirley Bassey’s hot pink Glastonbury gown, worn with diamanté-encrusted wellington boots—a look that balances elegance with earthiness, high fashion with accessibility. Her sartorial choice became symbolic of how divas engage with their audience: not from a pedestal but from a shared space of joy, grit, and resonance.
The Sensory Fabric of Storytelling
One of the most enchanting aspects of DIVA is its orchestration of sight, sound, and emotion. The exhibition is not confined to vitrines and placards—it’s animated with audio and video, immersing visitors in the world of each performer. This is not a silent gallery; it is a cinematic journey underscored by live performance footage, carefully curated playlists, and behind-the-scenes reels.
As you pass through each section, you hear the notes of Callas’s soaring soprano, the husky cadence of Tina Turner, or the electrifying beats of Lizzo's stage shows. These soundscapes are paired with visual projections that bring the garments to life—offering glimpses of the artists in motion, in full persona, doing what made them legends. The walls don’t just present; they perform.
This audiovisual curation bridges the temporal gap between viewer and performer. Even in the absence of a live stage, the exhibition makes each diva feel within reach. Their gestures, their voices, their boldness—it all reverberates, creating a sensory tapestry that refuses to let visitors remain passive observers.
Constructing the Diva: Performance as Resistance
The deeper message of the DIVA exhibition lies in its examination of the performer as both artist and activist. Many of the featured icons did more than entertain—they pushed cultural boundaries, advocated for justice, and refused to be silenced. The exhibition casts these figures not only as celebrities but as social commentators and disruptors of the norm.
Beyoncé’s visual albums, Rihanna’s ventures into inclusive fashion, and Lizzo’s body-positive performances all reflect the modern diva’s ability to shape conversations far beyond the entertainment industry. These are not isolated performers—they are architects of societal change. The exhibition highlights how their decisions—what to wear, what to sing, what to say—become instruments of influence.
Likewise, vintage trailblazers like Clara Bow and Josephine Baker are celebrated for navigating early Hollywood and Parisian cabarets with style and subversion. They used their platforms to rise above constraints of race, class, and gender in eras that were fundamentally repressive. Their legacy paved the way for today’s voices to speak louder, sing freer, and dress bolder.
Modern Icons and the Digital Renaissance
While the exhibition reveres the legacy of divas past, it also embraces how the digital age is reshaping the archetype. With social media, today's artists are no longer filtered through publicists and press releases; they are in direct conversation with their audiences. Instagram, TikTok, and Twitter have democratized fame, allowing artists like Billie Eilish, Lizzo, and Janelle Monáe to craft and control their narrative in real-time.
These digital platforms don’t just serve performance—they enhance visibility, foster solidarity, and allow for political engagement. Fans are no longer passive admirers; they are collaborators in the shaping of a diva’s mythos. From viral fashion statements to livestreamed activism, the contemporary diva is interactive, agile, and omnipresent.
The DIVA exhibition captures this shift with precision, showcasing not only garments and songs but tweets, viral moments, and social campaigns. This contextualizes the modern diva within a network of engagement, activism, and algorithmic storytelling. It’s a new stage, and the diva still reigns—only now, she does so with millions of followers, digital megaphones, and real-time feedback.
Legacy and Evolution: A Living Pantheon
The final segment of the DIVA exhibition is less of a conclusion and more of an invitation. It asks visitors to consider what it means to be a diva today—and who will define it tomorrow. The path from Maria Callas to Beyoncé is not a straight line; it is a spiraling, expansive constellation of voices, expressions, and movements. What connects them is not just talent, but the unwavering courage to own the spotlight on their own terms.
By displaying a diverse and inclusive range of performers—across generations, geographies, and gender identities—the exhibition repositions the diva as an evolving concept rather than a fixed identity. It reminds us that divas are not manufactured; they are born out of a tension between creativity and constraint, individuality and expectation. Their strength lies in their contradictions—delicate yet indomitable, stylized yet sincere.
Visitors leave with more than memories of glittering outfits or unforgettable performances. They depart with a newfound understanding of the diva not as a label, but as a legacy—one that continues to inspire resistance, innovation, and transformation. In celebrating these individuals, the V&A has not just presented a museum piece; it has lit a torch for the next wave of voices to follow.
Highlights of the Exhibition: Garments That Speak Volumes
At the heart of the V&A’s immersive DIVA exhibition lies a kaleidoscope of costume and couture—a collection of emblematic ensembles that do far more than merely dazzle the eye. These pieces function as artistic manifestos, political statements, and living archives of performance. In these garments, identity is sewn into every seam, cultural memory embedded into each fold. Each look on display forms a critical part of the overarching narrative that traces the diva not simply as a performer, but as a cultural force with the ability to transform history, style, and representation. The costumes showcased here are not museum relics; they are instruments of visual storytelling and radical self-expression.
Visitors are drawn first to the iconic pieces worn by legendary figures, instantly recognizable yet layered with deeper meaning. These ensembles are amplified by thoughtfully curated soundscapes, original recordings, and contextual media that envelop each item in its original ambiance. With every spotlighted costume, the curatorial team offers an invitation to understand the diva through her wardrobe—a kind of second skin that reveals intention, power, and personality. The clothing on display doesn’t just document moments; it enshrines revolutions in sound, vision, and selfhood.
Maria Callas: Operatic Elegance Embodied
The regal ensemble worn by soprano Maria Callas in the 1952 production of Norma at Covent Garden is more than a period costume. It’s a relic of operatic majesty and one of the exhibition’s most revered centerpieces. This costume evokes a bygone era of theatrical discipline and sublime vocal artistry. Its heavy brocade, meticulously embroidered bodice, and structured silhouette serve as a metaphor for the weight of expectation carried by women at the top of classical performance traditions. In her portrayal of Bellini’s tragic priestess, Callas’s stage presence was magnified by this powerful wardrobe, which now continues to echo her commanding aura within the exhibition halls.
The garment exemplifies the connection between voice and visual presence, anchoring the idea that the diva is as much seen as she is heard. In Callas’s case, her couture also signaled a woman in control of her image, aligned with both dramatic integrity and personal transformation. The operatic costume doesn’t just serve a role—it becomes an extension of the artist’s emotional landscape, with every hemline and jewel speaking to the intensity she brought to the role.
Marilyn Monroe: The Cinematic Alchemy of Glamour
Another arresting highlight of the exhibition is the sultry, fringed black dress worn by Marilyn Monroe in the 1959 classic Some Like It Hot. Crafted to sway with each movement, the dress is emblematic of Monroe’s ability to command both camera and audience with effortless sensuality and charisma. It’s not just a dress—it’s a visual symphony of allure, vulnerability, and performative mastery.
Within the context of the exhibition, this garment becomes more than a piece of old Hollywood glamour. It becomes a lens into the commodification of femininity, the intersection of image and identity, and the thin line between power and objectification. Monroe’s ensemble holds within it the legacy of a woman who blurred the boundaries between screen persona and private self. Her magnetic appeal wasn’t just physical—it was the performance of being seen, deeply felt through this particular look that has since become an emblem of mid-century cinematic iconography.
Visitors are left with a poignant reflection on how clothing contributes to the mythology of a star and how a single dress can become an enduring image in the global psyche.
Clara Bow: The Silent Siren's Hidden Legacy
Few garments evoke as much emotional weight as the rarely seen costume belonging to silent film star Clara Bow, showcased in the exhibition with an almost sacred reverence. Bow, often remembered as the original “It Girl,” was a symbol of the Jazz Age—a muse to the masses and an icon of unfiltered charm. Her inclusion in the exhibition acknowledges early 20th-century cinema as foundational to the diva's evolution.
This surviving film costume, scarcely displayed outside the United States, is a fragile artifact of a fleeting era, yet its significance is anything but faint. With its delicate fabrics and hand-stitched embellishments, the outfit reflects the meticulous artistry of silent-era fashion, where garments were designed to articulate emotion in the absence of spoken words. Here, fabric becomes language, silhouette becomes mood, and texture becomes tone. Bow’s legacy, often overshadowed by louder modern voices, is revived with a sense of gentle authority, reminding visitors of a time when charisma alone could silence an audience.
Bob Mackie’s Runway of Rebellion
No exploration of the diva’s wardrobe would be complete without the fantastical creations of Bob Mackie. The exhibition gives pride of place to his eye-popping designs for Cher, Tina Turner, and P!nk—outfits that blur the line between fashion and performance art. Sequins, feathers, rhinestones, and plunging necklines define his aesthetic, but it’s the underlying ethos that elevates his work: each outfit was made to magnify not only the wearer’s figure but also her power.
These stage ensembles become armor—scintillating shields worn by women who dared to redefine the rules of performance. Cher’s elaborately feathered headpieces, Tina Turner’s gravity-defying fringe, and P!nk’s muscular, high-octane costumes collectively shout a message of uncontainable energy and confidence. Their presence in the exhibition adds a kinetic force to the space, capturing decades of live concerts, television specials, and cultural moments that shaped public consciousness.
Mackie’s genius lies not only in design but in amplification. His outfits tell audiences that the performer is not here to blend in or conform—she is here to conquer. Through these costumes, the diva becomes mythical, luminous, and untouchable—yet entirely human in her fearless embrace of spectacle.
Elton John: Rococo Radicals and Baroque Spectacle
Equally commanding is the inclusion of Elton John’s extravagant Louis XIV-inspired costume worn for his 50th birthday celebration. Designed by costume visionary Sandy Powell, the look is a baroque explosion of theatricality. With its powdered wig, jeweled appliqués, and opulent fabric, it reimagines monarchical grandeur through a lens of queer flamboyance and 20th-century pop stardom.
This costume is not merely decorative—it’s disruptive. It challenges the boundaries of gender presentation and reclaims historical symbolism with tongue-in-cheek irreverence. Within the context of the DIVA exhibition, Elton John’s outfit serves as a reminder that the diva spirit is not confined to women. His embrace of camp aesthetics, performative exaggeration, and sartorial freedom aligns perfectly with the diva ethos.
The sheer spectacle of this costume, paired with archival footage of Elton’s performances, exemplifies the art of maximalism as self-expression. It proves that sometimes, the most radical act is to be unapologetically visible.
Shirley Bassey: Power Meets Practicality
Among the most charming and unexpected pieces is the hot pink couture gown worn by Dame Shirley Bassey at the Glastonbury Festival in 2007. Paired with diamanté-studded Wellington boots, this ensemble is an embodiment of Bassey’s singular ability to balance theatrical elegance with grounded wit. It’s this look—equal parts haute couture and practicality—that encapsulates the evolution of diva fashion from distant glamour to empowered accessibility.
The gown, designed by Julien MacDonald, features cascading fabrics and meticulous embellishments that sparkle with every movement. Yet it’s the pairing with rubber boots that cements its cultural impact. This fashion choice captured imaginations and headlines, not because of its extravagance alone, but because it made a statement about endurance, adaptability, and humour.
Displayed alongside footage of Bassey’s soaring vocals and commanding stage presence, the outfit speaks volumes about the layers of the diva identity: dazzling yet down-to-earth, majestic yet relatable. Her wardrobe, like her voice, is both an instrument and a weapon.
Janelle Monáe: The Anatomy of Empowerment
No modern exhibit of performance identity would be complete without the revolutionary wardrobe choices of Janelle Monáe. Her “vulva pants,” designed by Dutch designer Duran Lantink, appear at the exhibition as one of the most provocatively important pieces of wearable art in recent pop history. These pants, first introduced in the 2018 PYNK music video, are an unmistakable declaration of self-love, body positivity, and feminist pride.
Created in shades of pink and formed in the shape of labia, these trousers push the boundaries of conventional performance attire. They are unapologetically confrontational and poetically symbolic, transforming the female anatomy from taboo into celebration. For Monáe, fashion is not just aesthetic—it is a language of autonomy and resistance.
In the exhibition, these pants are displayed not as an oddity but as a masterpiece—situated among images and footage that highlight Monáe’s commitment to intersectionality, queerness, and artistic activism. Here, fashion transcends functionality; it becomes a vessel for radical truth.
Curating with Purpose: Veronica Castro on the Exhibition’s Vision
Project curator Veronica Castro offers profound insight into how the DIVA exhibition came to fruition and why it matters today. Speaking about the conceptual underpinnings, she shares that the idea had been brewing since Kate Bailey’s 2017 opera-centric show, Opera: Passion, Power and Politics, which hinted at the magnetic pull of the diva as an artistic phenomenon.
From there, the idea grew into a full-scale exploration. “We wanted to take the diva out of the cliché and place her—along with her male and non-binary counterparts—at the centre of cultural history,” says Castro. “It’s not about ego; it’s about excellence.”
The research involved was extensive, requiring deep dives into performance history across Europe and beyond, with a close look at how societal and political contexts shaped the concept of the diva. Items were sourced from the V&A’s collection as well as international collectors, through a mix of official loans and informal outreach. Each piece was carefully vetted for relevance, historical significance, and emotional resonance.
A Thematic Tapestry, Not a Timeline
Unlike conventional exhibitions that follow a chronological arc, DIVA unfolds in a thematic structure. The journey begins with the emergence of the diva in 19th-century opera, where the label was first applied to female vocalists of exceptional talent. However, the narrative quickly shifts into more abstract explorations—fame, rebellion, activism, identity, and transformation.
This approach allows the exhibition to connect divas from different eras in meaningful ways—highlighting how their roles as performers, leaders, and provocateurs have echoed and evolved through time.
Cultural Icons as Agents of Change
While the exhibition dazzles with visual and auditory splendour, its soul lies in its message. These performers did not simply entertain; they challenged systems. They lent their voices to social movements and used their influence to speak out against injustice. Their artistry became activism, their presence a form of resistance.
From civil rights to gender equality, LGBTQ+ visibility to mental health advocacy, the exhibition highlights how the diva is as much a mirror of society as she is its critic and change-maker.
“Seeing the garments is powerful,” says Castro. “But hearing their voices and understanding the struggles they faced adds another dimension. It reminds us that performance is also protest.”
Beyond Gender: The Expanding Realm of the Diva
While the term “diva” was historically gendered, the DIVA exhibition boldly challenges and redefines its boundaries. The inclusion of figures like Elton John emphasizes that the diva spirit transcends gender binaries. These performers have embraced and experimented with traditionally feminine aesthetics to provoke thought and expand ideas around masculinity, sexuality, and artistic identity.
This inclusive portrayal reflects modern sensibilities and broadens the cultural understanding of what a diva can be.
Social Media and the Modern Diva
In today’s hyper-connected digital landscape, social media plays a crucial role in the evolution of the diva. Platforms like Instagram, TikTok, and Twitter allow fans to interact directly with artists, building communities that are deeply loyal, emotionally invested, and politically active.
As Castro notes, “The relationship between performer and audience is more immediate than ever. These digital interactions have helped fans rally around their idols and build a kind of collective power.”
Social media has also given modern divas tools to bypass traditional gatekeepers and maintain creative control over their image, narrative, and art. They’re no longer just icons; they’re CEOs of their own cultural empires.
A Vision for the Future: Where the Diva Goes From Here
So, what lies ahead for the diva? According to Castro, today’s leading performers like Rihanna, Lizzo, and Beyoncé represent a powerful future. They’re not only defining music trends but are also at the forefront of business, fashion, philanthropy, and social justice. Their multifaceted success paves the way for new generations of artists to embody diva-hood on their own terms.
“As long as we value authenticity, risk-taking, and resilience, there will always be divas,” Castro affirms. “And they’ll continue to reinvent the cultural landscape for all of us.”
A Must-See Exhibition for Art and Culture Enthusiasts
Whether you're a lifelong fan of opera, a devotee of pop culture, or a scholar of gender and performance studies, the V&A’s DIVA exhibition offers something deeply resonant. It's not merely about costumes and charisma; it's about the intersection of identity, resistance, and reinvention through art.
Each room of the exhibition is an invitation—to reflect, to marvel, to be inspired. It’s a tribute to those who dared to be different, who transformed their personal truths into universal experiences, and who turned the stage into a space of liberation.
Final Thoughts:
The DIVA exhibition at the V&A Museum resonates far beyond the walls of South Kensington, offering a multilayered meditation on artistry, identity, and social evolution. In revisiting the word “diva,” Veronica Castro and her curatorial collaborators have fashioned a cultural palimpsest—layers of history, memory, and rebellion interwoven in a way that feels both timeless and startlingly contemporary. Standing before Maria Callas’s Covent Garden gown or Janelle Monáe’s provocative Pynk ensemble, visitors are reminded that performance is never just spectacle; it is a living archive of struggle, aspiration, and audacious self-invention. These garments, photographs, and soundscapes preserve the emotional charge of every aria, film scene, and stadium encore, making the exhibition an almost synesthetic experience.
Yet its significance reaches even further. By spotlighting performers who defied norms—whether Elton John’s flamboyant queerness in the 1970s or Shirley Bassey’s fearless glamour on muddy Glastonbury turf—the show underscores how the diva archetype has continually expanded cultural boundaries. It proves that an assertive stage presence can become a fulcrum for broader conversations about gender fluidity, body autonomy, and racial justice. In an era when algorithms can flatten nuance and reduce art to data points, DIVA insists on the messy, exuberant humanity behind star power.
Equally crucial is the exhibition’s dialogue with the digital age. Social media has forged unprecedented intimacy between artists and audiences, empowering fandoms to mobilize for everything from charitable fund-raising to global streaming parties. DIVA captures that dynamic, illustrating how contemporary megastars navigate a kaleidoscopic media landscape while leveraging their platforms for tangible change. The diva, once confined to gilded opera houses and silver screens, now commands virtual arenas where hashtags become rallying cries and live streams transform into communal rites.
Ultimately, the exhibition argues that the diva is not a relic of Old Hollywood or grand opera but a syncretic, ever-evolving force—a cipher through which society negotiates power, visibility, and transformation. By illuminating this lineage with scholarship and imagination, the V&A invites every visitor to ask: where might the next generation of divas lead us, and how will we amplify their voices? In this sense, DIVA is less a farewell tour than a prologue to stories still unfolding, reminding us that the true essence of a diva is an unquenchable commitment to re-enchanting the world, one fearless performance at a time.
